The first impressions are always the most important to record, because with every day, I will slowly lose the fresh, unaltered perspective I had during my first contact with a new place.Getting off the plane, a group of forty uniformed schoolchildren shouted, “Welcome to Zambia! Welcome to Zambia!”
Costa, from MuviTV, picked me up, and we looked for accommodation. We went to three different places before settling on Mika Lodge.
On the way there, we passed through Manda Hill, where the Parliament is situated. It is made of copper, an abundant resource in Zambia. When there are elections, Zambians speak of the “race to Manda Hill”.
We drove on bumpy roads full of holes. According to Costa, it’s because of corruption. The government spends money on roads, but often, they don’t get built. There are many public health billboards on roadsides, including one with a little girl saying sex with her won't cure aids; another one informing Zambians sexual harassment is a crime; a third one encouraging the fight against malaria.
Below, a little 2-minute movie from the first drive, READ MORE first day impressions HERE
There is no constant electricity supply. Many people rely on generators during power breaks. I’ve been told Zambia has the worst internet supply in the world. It is indeed a challenge to get a good connection. And, it's actually COLD in the morning and after 5 p.m. It's fall season right now and quite dusty, too.
Most Lusaka citizens who can afford to hang out at the “Arcades”.
It’s an outside strip mall with many restaurants, cafés, movie theatres. (movie) Very lively, very colourful. It could be anywhere in the world. It could be Florida.
After the Arcades, we visited Costa’s home in the middle class district. He has the cutest 2-year-old little boy ever. He’s really a mini-Costa, actually.
My first thoughts about here: there’s everything to build! Roads, schools, hospitals, infrastructures, entertainment… If only someone with a vision could encourage investment and development.
August 6
Day 2
My first (real) day in Zambia, and I find myself in court!
But I didn’t do anything wrong. Costa has been subpoenaed as a witness since he saw political violence in the North-Western part of Zambia, near Kansanshi.
It’s 8:55 a.m. on Friday, August 6, 2010. Costa should be in court at 9. (video)
In the end, Costa doesn’t testify. He has to go back on Tuesday. However, I got a glimpse of the Superior Court (lobby) in Zambia. One of the lawyers wears a traditional British wig.
We’re a bit late for our meeting with Marsha Moyo, a celebrated Zambian musician with international recognition, who is also a UN goodwill ambassador.
We were talking to her and her mother, explaining the documentary project we are working on. I go off on a rant about Dambisa Moyo’s book, Dead Aid; about how she argues that development aid is not the long-term solution for Africa. They ask me whether I agree or not, and I reply that yes, she does seem to be quite a credible expert on the subject, given she comes from Zambia (compared to foreign “experts” that have not grown up here and think they have the solutions to putting Africa on the path of development).
Turns out that Marsha, who came out in a blue velvet track suit and big, movie-star glasses, is, well really a star. And she tells me Dambisa is her sister. I feel rather stupid, really.
But in a way, I’m glad I didn’t know so much about her before meeting her, because it made for more natural conversation. We’ll have an interview with her on Tuesday and we think she’ll make an excellent subject.
Today was a big logistics day. We met with our cameraman, many of Costa’s coworkers that will be assisting us in the production process and Costa’s extremely helpful boss.
We attended the launch of a foundation and got an interview with Zambia’s former finance minister, and then headed out to film some of the nightlife.
Destinations: Arcades, including Rhapsody and Times, Jazz Club and Mayela. My favorite: definitely Mayela. The first two clubs were fancy: they were the place to go to see and be seen. Jazz Club was buried somewhere in Lusaka’s dark streets. That’s where we danced a bit… but I was hungry to see something more real. ‘Take me to the ghetto!” I asked. To the bumping and grinding and shit.
And thus we wound up at Mayela. I was the only white person there and felt slightly noticed, but, oh well. The club was rather dingy, but big and packed. It was full of mirrors, black lights and laser lights. My teeth had an eary neon glow to them. Outside the club, the streets and dusty lots were packed with cars and youth having beer, street vendors selling cigarettes.
Oh, the dancing! That’s what I was talking about. Zambia beats. Hips shaking. People letting loose…
Costa brought along a bunch of fun-loving friends who showed me a great time: Bang Bang, Jellybu and others.
We bumped into JK, one of Zambia’s most famous artists.
August 7
Being here has reminded me how much we take for granted. Electricity. Smooth roads. Comfort. Traditions and habits we don’t question.
We started filming late for many reasons. Costa lost electricity at 3 a.m. We had to get tapes and it took quite a while to find parking. Our cameraman had different commitments earlier.
But then we hit the Cultural Village and a nearby market where I will get some dresses sown, perhaps get braids.
Then a place where there were a bunch of bars and dozens of youth getting drunk. We bumped into a famous gospel star and a football star. We hit up “African Braii” – goat’s their specialty. Everything goat: ribs, sausages, what looked like goat steak…
We stopped by the Parliament Hotel, where MEPs stay. A few MEPs from different parties were chilling together in one of the rooms.
Costa had to head home and get food for his family, as there was no electricity.
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